Wow!! I see why there are so many boats in the Mediterranean, the sailing is really great, no tides, flat seas, zillions of safe anchorages and the anchoring is much more relaxing as we don't have to worry about the tide turning every 6 hours and hoping the anchor resets itself.
Saying that we got a bit of a battering leaving on our overnighter from Gibraltar. Being used to 4 metre swells in Biscay and the Portuguese Atlantic coast I ignored the wave height of 1 metre, thinking it was insignificant. What I missed was the wavelength. The 4 metre swells have a wavelength in the order of 10 seconds. So the boat fits between the waves. The 1 metre waves had a wavelength in the order of 1 second, much shorter than the boat. With wind of 25 knots there was some banging on the hull I'd never heard before and so we had an uncomfortable and noisy night. I think I say this at least once a day. Every day is a school day when sailing.
But the next day the sun came out and the sea flattened.
We got a welcome from some dolphins.
We planned to spend Christmas day in Torrevieja marina so were in no rush so we just bobbed along in the sunshine at 1 knot. I was determined to catch a fish for Christmas dinner but only managed to get my fishing line wrapped around the propeller. So I had my first swim in the Med, it was a wee bit chillier than the Atlantic but was easy enough to untangle.
The following night, around 3am, as we bobbed along at sub light velocity we got a visit from Spanish customs. Mandy was asleep and I got the shock of my life when the boat suddenly lit up with their spotlights. They came out of nowhere. It was some boat, sleak, fast, quiet and lots of customs guys on deck. They asked a few questions, where have you come from, where are you headed, are you the owner, are you alone. they seemed happy with my answers and said ok, goodnight and off into the night they went. Mandy slept through the whole thing.
The next night, around midnight, we got a call on the VHF from customs asking us if we'd seen any boats going past us. What we saw over the next hour was five green lights bobbing past us. They defo were not nav lights. They looked to me like someone swimming with a green head torch on. We shouted them, in case they were in difficulty, but got no answer. So we reported what we saw to the Customs. We heard no more and haven't got a clue what they were. The next night I saw two more of the strange green lights.
We arrived in Torrevieja marina International Christmas eve. The most expensive marina yet, €60 a night, but the best toilets and showers ever. The marina was pristine and the staff super helpful so I am not complaining. We went into town for something to eat and try and find some Torrevieja-ian turkey as I had failed to catch a fish. No turkey but we both bought a pair of shoes each. It was very lively and festive evening in Torrevieja.
Then back to the boat to wait for father christmas. Christmas day on the boat was ace. We didn't feel to isolated from our families as we did a few vid calls and Mandy made the most amazing Christmas lunch.
And then to top off a great day we had a surprise visit from our astronomy friends Rob and Antoinette who were staying down the road with Antoinette's parents. Great night, too much whisky but great to see them. Rob also tweaked my battery BMS's parameters which sorted out a slight charging issue I had. Many, many thanks Rob, you are now the other person on the planet who understands my electrics.
Boxing day was a washout but we managed to limp to an anchorage just outside the marina so Mandy could work for three days. And then onto Alicante to see Carmen for new years eve.
Crews of Njorth Clan, Bonnie Doon, Mir and Champagne This place is astounding. I know I say that about everywhere but Cartagena feels like home. We arrived to the sound of a viking horn from our friends Henri & Siska on Lille Ø and spent the first week exploring the city with them. The place is rocking at night so colourful, clean and the locals are really friendly. The food and booze was cheap and everywhere made a perfect margarita. Buying the tasty ants. They go great with a margarita Local delicacy, I love them A lot of history here. We visited the torture museum, an ironically beautiful building in the old town, were they conducted the Spanish inquisition. I knew nothing about the Spanish inquisition. Quite disturbing especially some of the devices used. We visited the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas with Clare from Champagne. Mandy under the statue of Simón BolÃvar the Venezuelan dude responsible for Colombia's, and many other South American countries, independenc...
When we planned this trip 6 years ago one of my objectives was to Sail to Grand Cayman to see our buddy Tim . Woo hoo, we did it! It was only just over 10,000 miles sailing. The last leg from South America was 640 nautical miles, pretty much the length of the uk. It took us 6 days. The first 2 were uncomfortable, the next 3 were champagne sailing and the last day there was no wind so we had to motor. Halfway We arrived in Georgetown harbour at the same time as 4 cruise liners, they are big, and we were escorted to the customs dock by the super friendly harbour patrol amidst the madness of 4 cruise liner passengers being shipped ashore. Mandy waiting for me at Customs dock while I check in my speargun. (Not allowed here) When I came the Cayman islands 35 years ago to see Tim I thought to myself "Wouldn't it be cool to sail into Georgetown harbour?" Not in a zillion years did I think I would ever do it. But here we are, on a mooring ball in Georgetown watching the cruise ...
So we left The Florida Keys on the next available weather window for the 600 mile trip east (ish) to the Turks and Cacos. It started well, we champagne sailed for 12 hours without the autopilot just using the sails to steer. Then the weather turned, nothing like the predictions. We had 25 knots of wind gusting to 35 on our nose for 4 days. We were not planning to go to the Bahamas as they want $700 for a 3 month cruising license but we did cut across the south end of the Great Bahama bank. It's very shallow, around 8 metres deep, so the waves are small but the frequency was not good to be bashing into it. It was hell, we were burning through our fuel like a Saturn V rocket and only doing 2 knots. (that's 2 days to do 50 miles) After 2 days we were looking to bail out somewhere as we were running out of fuel. The only places were either go back the keys, Cuba (they have no fuel in Cuba) or the Bahamas ($700) Then the genoa ripped. We argued, for the first time on the boat. We we...
Loved reading this guys! Glad you enjoyed Christmas xxx
ReplyDeleteWhat a fabulous Christmas! Even if you didn’t manage to catch a fish Graham - very entertaining 🙌😂❤️
ReplyDeleteBrilliant! Merry Christmas. Love the dolphins and the Christmas lunch. Fish is all wrong for Christmas Day anyway!! xxx
ReplyDeleteHope you both had a great Christmas.
ReplyDeleteFrom: John & Jan.
DeleteLovely talking with you both at Christmas made up. Xxx
ReplyDeleteHi Graham,
ReplyDeleteLooks fabulous. What a great way to spend Christmas and new Year :)
What is the email address to subscribe to your blog? (The link tries to open an email App which I do not use, just Web Mail).
Cheers,
Mark